2007年12月1日 星期六

軟棉棉,香噴噴

I always believe that making a good meal is the connecting link in celebrating the time we spend with family and friends. A good dish ties not only flavor, texture, aroma together, blending with juices and spices, and decorating with colorful garnishes, it also brings together family and friends, by the pleasant aroma infusing the house during the cooking process, and the warmth from baking or from the stove top, together with the chatting over the counter discussing different cooking methods and ingredients.

Cooking has its mysterious power, especially at this time of the year when we are surrounded by our loved ones.

Tonight I tried baking this Raisin-Pecan Celebration Bread. Although it takes a long time, it's well worth it. The aroma of the fermenting dough escaped from a saran wrapped bowl unwind our busy minds. Seeing the dough doubling in size is always dramatic and entertaining--it's difficult to comprehend what those little yeast can do to the dough, releasing all the flavor and moisture during their very short life cycle.

The sweet and savor scent during the baking process always bring warmth to entire family, especially during this cold afternoon on the first day of December.

Ingredients
Unbleached bread flour, 3 cups
Sugar, 3 tbps
Salt, 3/4 tsp
Active Dry Yeast, 3 1/2 tsp
Lemon Zest, finely chopped, 2 tbsp
Large eggs, slightly beaten, 2
Milk, any kind at room temperature, 1/2 cup
Unsalted butter, melted, 2 tbsp
Water, room temperature, 1/4 to 1/2 cup
Raisins, 1 1/2 cups
Pecans, coarsely chopped, 1 cup
1 egg, whisked, for egg wash

Procedure
1. Stir together the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast in a large bowl. Add the lemon zest, eggs, milk, and butter. Slowly adding just enough water to make a soft, pliable ball of dough.
2. Sprinkle flour on the counter and transfer the dough to the counter. Knead for about 5 minutes, or until the dough is slightly tacky, not not sticky. Then gently knead in the raisins and pecans, a little at a time, and keep kneading for 2 minutes, or until they are evenly distributed. Cover the bowl with saran wrap.
3. Ferment at room temperature for about 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.
4. Transfer the dough to the counter and divide into 3 pieces of 10 ounces each and 3 pieces of 4 ounces each. Set them aside for resting, for a bout 30 minutes. Then carefully shape the dough into long strips of equal length and size. Braid the large strands and small strands separately. Put the large braid on top of a baking sheet, and then center the small braid on top of the large one. Brush the entire assembly with egg wash.
5. Proof uncovered at room temperature for about 90 minutes, or until the dough nearly doubles in size. Brush the loaf a second time with egg wash.
6. Preheat oven to 325'F, with the oven rack on the middle shelf.
7. Bake for approximately 25 minutes, or until the loaf is a deep golden brown.
8. Remove the bread from the pan and transfer it to a cooling rack. Allow the bread to cool for at least 1 hour before serving.

2007年11月17日 星期六

翡翠釀雞胸

Many people do not have good impression on chicken breast, since most of the time the meat is overcooked and loses its tenderness, especially during baking or pan-frying. The problem can easily be avoided by poaching, one of the moist heating methods that allows easy access to the meat to check internal temperature.

Poaching is usually done by using a small amount of liquid that is hot but not boiling. The temperature is set to about 71'C to 82'C (160'F to 180'F). In order to cook the meat throughly, cover the meat with greased parchment paper, or a pot lid if you want to save some work. However, using a pot lid creates steaming effects that will shorten the cooking time and should be noted.

How can you tell when the chicken is done? The best way is to use a cooking thermometer and if the thickest part of the meat reads 175'F you can turn of the heat. Using other methods, including experience, will usually ruin the meat.

The stuffed spinach and pine nuts match the chicken perfectly, and they provide extra juice and oil to keep the meat moist. the vegetables provide good source of vitamins and minerals that help keeping your heart in good condition!

Ingredients
Chicken Breasts, boneless, 2
Shallots, 30g
Butter, 60g
Flour, 20g
Chicken Stock, 250ml
White Wine, 100ml
35% Cream, 100ml
Tarragon, fresh, 5 sprigs
Spice Bag (parsley stalks, thyme, bay leaf, crushed black peppercorns)

Spinach, 1 bunch
Garlic, 1 clove
Olive Oil, 30ml
Pine Nuts, toasted, 30g
Salt and pepper to taste

Procedure
1. Heat olive oil in a saute pan, then add garlic and pine nuts.
2. Add spinach and cook for 45 seconds until it becomes soft.
3. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Let the spinach cool off. If you want to prepare this ahead of time, put it to the fridge.
5. Use a sharp knife and open a pocket in the chicken breast.
6. Season the chicken with salt and pepper.
7. After the spinach is cooled off, squeeze out excess liquid and stuff it to the chicken breast. Pack it tight but do not break the pocket.
8. Secure with a wooden skewer.
9. Melt 30g of butter in saute pan and add the breast, skin side down.
10. Remove chicken breast and excess oil when the skin is lightly browned.
11. Turn down the heat and add shallots. Cook for a few minutes and do not brown the shallots.
12. Add white wine, stock, spice bag, and chicken breast (this time skin side up).
13. Cover with buttered parchment paper (or a lid).
14. Bring the liquid to a boil then reduce the temperature to poach the chicken. Check the internal temperature of the thickest part of the meat, if it reaches 175'F then turn off the heat and remove it from the pan. Set the meat aside.
15. To make the sauce, add cream to the liquid and stir well.
16. Turn on the heat and bring the mixture to boil.
17. Dissolve flour in cold water, then add it to the boiling liquid. Turn down the heat and keep stirring.
18. Taste test the sauce and adjust the consistency as needed.
19. Add freshly chopped tarragon and turn off the heat.
20. Remove the skillet and the skin from the chicken breast.
21. Slice thickly and plate the meat.
22. Serve with the finished sauce.

2007年10月21日 星期日

無油煮食

最近有一位朋友說我作的菜用太多牛油,所以不敢嘗試。但一湯匙的牛油只有30微克(mg)的膽固醇,比美國食品及藥物管理局(FDA)建議每日攝取量300微克差很遠。

但為了大家的健康(其實也為自己),今天的菜沒有下油。雖然如此,味道卻很濃郁。

這道菜用了「球子甘藍」(brussel sprout)。它是一種非常有營養的食材。單是一杯的份量已有足夠一天的維生素C。

洗菜的時候可放進鹽水中浸三十分鐘,令藏在葉子內的昆蟲走出來。洗淨後把底部老去的部份切去,但要保持菜的完整。再在底部𠝹上十字,令菜容易熟,及幫助吸收汗液。

要注意,若球子甘藍煮的時間不夠會有苦味。所以煮好後的球子甘藍大多會失去青綠色。

另外的材枓是鹽漬鱈魚(salt cod)。煮前要用清水把鱈魚浸透24小時,其間要換水數次,以保持魚的新鮮。

浸透後的鹽漬鱈魚味道非常鮮甜,鹹度剛好。

若可以的話,用金華火煺切小丁,以增加顏色和風味。

鹽漬鱈魚燴球子甘藍

【材料】
球子甘藍,200克
鹽漬鱈魚,100克
金華火煺,小許切丁
清雞湯,適量

【作法】
1.把球子甘藍放在鍋中,加冰清水和鹽。加熱理滾開。
2.水滾後把球子甘藍放在冰清水中冷卻。
3.浸透後的鹽漬鱈魚切片。
4.把鱈魚、球子甘藍、金華火煺放進焗盤或玻璃碟上。
5.捯下清雞湯至覆蓋三分之一的球子甘藍。
6.放進焗爐(375度F)焗20分鐘即成。

Recently my friend complained that I used too much butter in my dishes that scared my friend away. In fact butter has only 30mg of cholesterol, far less than the 300mg daily limit recommended by FDA. Besides, butter provides a lot of body and flavour to the dish. So why skipping it?

That said, I still want to keep my friend, and myself, a bit healthier. So here it comes something that does not need extra oil.

I used brussel sprout in this dish. This vegetable is high in Vitamin K and Vitamin C, and one cup of brussel sprout provides more than enough of Vitamin C for daily consumption.

When washing brussel sprout, soak it under salted cold water to allow small inscets to come out from within the leaves. After rinsing, cut the bottom brown part out while keeping the entire sprout as a whole. And then make a cross cut at the bottom. This allows an even cooking throughout the sprout, and can keep more sauce inside the sprout.

The other ingredient is salt cod fish. To gain the delicious flavour of the cod, it has to be soaked in clean cold water at least 24 hours before use. Rinse and replace with clean water for a few times while soaking to keep the fish fresh.

If you can find good quality Chinese ham, prepare some fine dices for decoration.

Braised Brussel Sprout with Salt Cod and Premium Chinese Ham

Ingredients
Brussel sprout, 200g
Slat cod, 100g
Chiense ham, diced, enough for decoration
Consommé

Procedure
1. Put the brussel sprout into a sauce pan. Add cold water and salt. Bring it to a boil.
2. Take out the brussel sprout and keep it in cold water.
3. Slice the soaked salt cod.
4. Place the cod, brussel sprout, ham on a baking pan or a glass pie plate.
5. Pour in consommé to cover up to 1/3 of the brussel sprout.
6. Bake under 375F for 20 minutes.

2007年10月17日 星期三

蔬菜蛋餡餅

說起吃蛋,似乎一直沒有良好的印象;小時候害怕測驗考試「捧蛋」,長大之後害怕吃蛋隨之而來的膽固醇。

的確,吃一顆雞蛋便攝取了70%單日吸收膽固醇的限量。這個蛋餡餅需要兩顆雞蛋,必定超標。

但其實蛋黃含有的營養比一般肉類更高,但卡路里的含量則很低(只有70卡路里)。

注重健康的人可能只用蛋白,但蛋白的營養比蛋黃少得多。所以,只要一週不吃超過三顆蛋,對健康是有益而無害的。

這個餡餅很容易做,只要隨意找些蔬菜(這次用了洋蔥、紫色馬鈴薯、無花果、蘆筍),用橄欖油略炒後調味,加入兩顆雞蛋拌勻至剛熟,放進小盤中。再於表面上放上已煮熟的蔬菜作為裝飾。放進烤箱內烤熱(broil)一分鐘,令表面有少許焦黃,灑上香草(如龍艾 Tarragon)即成。蔬菜部分也可用蕃茄,青椒等代替。

Omelet "Flat" with figs, purple potato, asparagus, bacon, and onion

I didn't have a good impression about eggs: when I grew up having an "egg" in a test or exam will ensure a long "torture" from parents, and now as a grown up its cholesterol content scared me a way for while.

Granted, egg yolk contains 70% of expert-recommended cholesterol daily intake. And this omelet uses two eggs so I can imagine this recipe will scare some people away.

However the nutrients we get from egg yolk are far more than a lot of meat, while its calorie content is only 70 for a large egg.

For those health minded people they may think of using egg whites only. Unfortunately that will sacrifice a lot of flavour, as well as nutrients. Oh well, a few eggs in a week wouldn't be threatening to most people.

To make this omlete, gather the following ingredients (4 servings):
Onion, finely chopped .......... 1 small
Purple potato, small slices .... 1 small
Asparagus .............................. 12 stalks
Fresh fig, sliced ...................... 2
Large sized egg ...................... 8

1. On a hot pan add 2 table spoons of olive oil.
2. Sweat the vegetables until the onions are soft and transluscent.
3. Drop in the eggs and quickly mix them together with the vegetables.
4. Cook until the mixture is slightly set.
5. Transfer the mixture to creme brulee ramekins (I used a 5" wide, 1" deep).
6. Garnish with cooked vegetables.
7. Put it into an oven and broil on high heat for around 1 minute. This should create a nice golden yellow color. You may need to brown more depending on the power of your oven.
8. Serve hot.

There is a lot of variations to this dish, as you can change the vegetables according to your preference. For example, you can use tomatoes, green peppers, and olives and you'll have a Spanish style omelete.

2007年10月16日 星期二

金銀蒜豆豉蕃茄蒸鮭魚頭

今天在學校煮海鮮。 我們把鮭魚起肉後,它的骨和頭便要丟掉。對於中國人來說,魚頭是十分美味的。於是我二話不說,便跟 Chef 要了魚頭。她聽到有人要廢物利用,十分高興。

回家後,我把魚頭清理乾淨,切大塊,溺乾水分。豆豉小許用水浸片刻除去鹹味。蒜頭三塊切成蓉,一半用375度F的油炸至金黃色(大概半分鐘),取出,用廚房紙巾吸去油份,待用。

蕃茄去籽切丁(大小跟魚頭塊差不多),加入魚頭、豆豉、未炸過的蒜茸、蕃茄、少許鹽與黑胡椒碎(或以朝天椒代替)。拌勻。隔水大火蒸八分鐘,或至魚頭全熟。

取出之後灑上炸過的蒜蓉,加上少許檸檬汁和幾片九層塔葉裝飾便成。

炸過的蒜頭令魚頭更有質感和香味,而蒜香的味道也在蒸的過程中,浸入魚塊當中。放入蕃茄的原因除了令黑沈沈的豆豉和魚塊增加顏色之外,更令這道菜有微微的酸性,中和鮭魚的油膩感。

而豆豉則令整道菜更野味。鮭魚頭可用其他濃味多油的魚代替,如海鱸(Sea Bass)等。

Steamed Salmon Fish Head with Roma Tomato in Preserved Black Bean Sauce with Steamed and Deep Fried Minced Garlic

In today's class we cooked fish, and there were a couple of fish heads left for the trash. Since my parents and I love those stuffs (well, I guess it's common for Asian to eat anything, including heads and bones), I picked up a head and some fatty belly for free!

Here's the receipe:

Ingredients:
Head of salmon, Fresh ......... 1
Roma tomato ....................... 3
Garlic, minced .................... 3, minced
Preserved black beans ......... 10 g
Basil leaves, small ........... a few
Salt and cracked black pepper conrns to taste

1. Gut, wash and clean the head. Cut it into large pieces (large enough for one bite). Drain out excess water and set aside.
2. Rince and soak the preserved balck beans in cold water.
3. Take half of the minced garlic and deep fry it at 375'F until golden brown (about 30 seconds).
4. Dice and seed the tomatoes. Keep the skin on for more flavour.
5. Mix the fish head pieces with the rest of uncooked garlic mince, preserved black beans, and tomato dices. Season with a pinch of salt and ground black peppercorns. (Do not put too much salt since the preserved black beans are salty).
6. Steam the fish head for 8 minutes, or until well done.
7. Sprinkle the deep fried mince garlic, and garnish with a few small basil leaves (or chopped chives).
8. Serve hot.

The reason for the deep fried minced garlic to add extra color and texture, while the garlic steamed with the fish provides flavour. The tartness of tomato dice remove some of the oily feel of salmon head. Adding preserved balck beans greatly improve the flavour of the dish.

2007年10月15日 星期一

薑汁南瓜湯


最近天氣開始變涼了,多倫多的街道上遍地黃葉,街頭的蔬菜店鋪也陸續擺放了大大小小,林林總總的南瓜。想不到這樣一年將到盡頭。

我小時候不太喜歡吃南瓜,覺得太乾,味道太濃。但其實南瓜是眾多瓜類中營養最豐富的,而且,多吃有抗癌的作用,更可以抗衰老。

今天作的這個湯非常容易,只要把南瓜(1.5kg)皮除去,切成小塊。將牛油放入湯鍋中,加入南瓜粒、薑絲一湯匙、和蒜蓉一湯匙。用中細火把南瓜煮爛(約45分鐘)。其間要攪拌。煮爛南瓜之後,便放入牛骨湯。煮滾後熄火。加入五湯匙薑汁,再用攪拌器攪勻。調味後即成。

2007年10月14日 星期日

西芹濃湯

Cream of Celery and Celeriac with Lovage

【材料】
無鹽牛油 Unsalted Butter ................................. 50克
麵粒粉 Flour ...................................................... 40克
洋蔥,切碎 Onion, Diced ............................................ 60克
韮蔥(白色部份),切碎 Leek, White part only, Diced .... 60克
西芹頭(根部),切碎 Celery Root, Diced .............. 200克
西芹莖 Celery Stalk ...................................... 60克
熱雞湯 Chicken Stock (heated up) ................... 1.5公升
35% 牛乳 Cream ................................... 120毫升
獨活草葉 Lovage .................................... 1塊

【香料包】
黑胡椒碎 Black Peppercorn, cracked
月桂葉碎 Dried Bay leaves, cracked ................. 各適量


【作法】
1.西芹莖去皮,切成粒。
Wash, peel and dice the celery.
2.在湯鍋中融化牛油,加入各種蔬菜。
Melt butter in a large sauce pan. Add vegetables.
3.慢火將蔬菜煮軟,約數分鐘。
Sweat vegetables for a few minutes.
4.混入麵粉,煮至聚成一團(約一分鐘)。放置待冷。
Add flour to make aromatic roux.
Cook until the mixture clumps together (around 1 minute).
Let it cool down a bit.
5.慢慢加入熱雞湯,攪拌。
Add in hot chicken stock gradually.
Stir the mixture while adding the stock.
6.加熱至湯滾,改慢火至微滾。加入香料包,其間攪拌。
Bring to a boil, turn down to simmer and add spice bag.
Stir frequently.
7.煮30至40分鐘。
Simmer for 30-40 minutes.
8.除去香料包,濾渣。
Disgard spice bag and strain.
9.把湯倒入小鍋內,加入牛乳。加熱至滾開。
Pour into a sauce pan, add 35% cream and bring it to a boil.
10.熄火後調味,放入獨活草葉碎。
Add the chopped lovage and adjust seasoning.
11.伴以起士烤麵包
Serve with Bénédictin Cheese Croûtons.

2007年10月13日 星期六

努力的回報

今天為了要賺取一份非常非常珍貴、想要了很久的禮物,我努力作了幾道菜,與爹娘一同分享。

結果,禮物到手了,家人也吃得高興!

【牛骨蔬菜湯】
這道湯非常簡單,只要把小馬鈴薯三個、紅蘿蔔兩條、洋西芹一條、大蕃茄兩個,紅甜菜頭一個、洋蔥等切成大片。然後放進滾開的牛骨湯中(清雞湯或清水也可以),再滾開後轉中火,煮約45分鐘。喜歡的話可加進洋芫荽,因為我喜歡它清新的感覺。

其實,洋芫荽除了有助增加湯的味道,也有助減低血壓。

Vegetable beef soup
This soup is easy to make: 3 small potatoes, 1 carrot, 1 celery stalk, 2 tomatoes, 1 beet, and 1 onion. Cut vegetable into big pieces, and put them into boiled browned beef stock (you can use chicken stock or plain water as well). Bring it to a boil and then simmer for 45 minutes. Put in parsley leaves at the end of the cooking process to enchance the flavour.

【韮菜炒蛋】
我相信很多人都會做這道菜。為了香口一點,我先炒香碎煙肉,逼出煙肉的油,(可千萬不要弄焦)。除去多餘的油之後,下已切粒的韮菜一起炒到軟身,然後把打好的六個蛋的蛋漿(隨韮菜的多寡而定,原則是蛋漿要能包裹著韮菜。)倒進鍋中。慢火將蛋液煎熟,這時可以輕微下一些油,以防蛋變焦。直到蛋液七八分熟的時候,放下數片千層疊葉,把蛋餅對合一起,即可裝盤,以免蛋變得過熟。
  調味的時候要小心,因為煙肉已有鹹度。蛋液在攪發時千萬不要太混,只要將蛋白跟蛋黃稍微混合即可,以免煮的時候出水。

Garlic Chives Scrambled Egg
Stir fry chopped bacons under medium heat to release its oil (but do not let them burned). Remove excess oil and add chopped garlic chives, and stir fry until soft. Add enough eggs to cover all garlic chives (slightly mix the eggs) and turn down the heat. Cook until the eggs solidify at the bottom while there is still liquid on the top. Fold the mixture into half and plate it.

Be careful when seasoning, since the bacon is already salted. Also do not stir to mix the eggs vigourously, since this will release water during the cooking process.

【焗秋令什菜】
秋天是根莖類植物的當令季節,所以這道菜所選的都是時令產品,不但甜美,而且價錢便宜。當中的材料其實不用那麼考究。我所選的蔬菜有黃蕪菁(Yellow Turnip)、粗根芹菜 (Celery Root)、紅蘿蔔、蒜頭、紅蔥頭(Shallot)、防風草根(Parsnip)等。切成大塊,混合橄欖油、鹽、黑胡椒碎、新鮮百里香葉碎。用375度F(190度C)焗至蔬菜變軟(約45~60分鐘,視乎大小而定。)即成。切勿把蔬菜焗得太乾身,不時地攪拌可使油充分塗抹在表面上。

Roasted Root Vegetables
This is a peasant style dish, and you can adjust your choice of vegetables that are in season. I used yellow turnips, celery roots, carrots, garlics, shallots, parsnip, and baby beets. Roughly cut all vegetables into large pieces of about the same size, mix with olive oil, salt, cracked balck peppercorn, and chopped fresh thyme leaves. Put the vegetables into a roasting pan and bake under 375F (190C) until the vegetables become soft (around 45-60 minutes, depending on the size). Do not over cook it since the vegetables will become bitter if they are too browned. Also stir occasionally to keep them coated with oil during the process.

【薑汁撞奶】
餐後的甜品是薑汁撞奶,也是很容易做的。
先把薑磨成泥,取大約一湯匙的薑汁放在碗中。煮熱全脂牛奶至70~80度C把熱牛奶倒進有薑汁的碗內,用湯匙輕輕攪拌,一分鐘後待奶凝固,便可食用。可隨意加入糖漿調味。牛奶的加熱的溫度很重要,70~80度C最為理想。若喜歡滑溜的口感,可以把牛奶加熱至85度C。

Ginger Milk
This is served as a dessert. Ground ginger and get its juice (about 1 tbsp) and put it into a serving bowl. Heat up around 250ml whole milk to 70-80'C (160-180'F). Mix milk with ginger juice and stir slightly. Let it stands for a minute until the mixture solidifies. Serve with sugar/syrup to taste.

2007年10月11日 星期四

蕃茄濃湯

 蕃茄是很有營養的食物,富有維生素C和礦物質。對高血壓、夜盲症、牙齦出血等患者,有一定的幫助。

 蕃茄的葉一度被認為有毒,不可以吃。可是有研究說,蕃茄的葉其實有一種物質,名叫 「tomatine」,可幫助身體減低吸收膽固醇。蕃茄葉也可以增加湯的鮮味,所以在煮湯最後半小時可加數片蕃茄葉。

 有人覺得蕃茄的表皮應除去,但我卻不同意。其實表皮是最有味道的一部份,丟掉便很浪費了。

 罐頭蕃茄要選沒有 「calcium chloride」的,因會令蕃茄變得很難溶化。

 牛骨湯令味道更濃,喜歡清淡一點的可用清雞湯代替。

Purée of Tomato Soup (Brown Stock Base)

【材料】
 無鹽奶油 unsalted butter ……………………… 50公克
 煙肉 bacon ……………………………………… 25公克
 洋蔥切粒 onion dice ………………………… 100 公克
 紅蘿蔔切粒 carrot dice ……………………… 80 公克
 西洋芹切粒 celery stalk dice ……………… 60 公克
 蕃茄切粒 tomato dice ……………………… 100 公克
 罐頭蕃茄 canned tomato …………………… 250 公克
 牛骨湯 browned beef stock ………………… 1 公升
 35% 鮮奶油 35% cream …………………… 100毫升
 九層塔 basil ……………………………………… 適量

 【香料包】
  百里香 thyme
  月桂葉碎 bay leaves
  奧勒岡草 oregano
  洋芫荽莖 fresh parsley stalks
  碎黑胡椒 cracked black peppercorn …………… 各適量

【作法】
 1. 於湯鍋中把奶油溶掉後,加入煙肉和蔬菜。中火略煮至洋蔥半誘明。
  Melt butter in a deep pan. Add bacon and vegetables and sweat.
 2.把蕃茄切粒和罐頭蕃茄加進鍋中,逐漸加入熱的牛骨湯。
  Add tomato and hot stock. Stir to a simmer and then add the spice bag.
 3.加熱至微滾,然後加入香料包。煮約一小時。其間要不時攪拌。
  Cook for an hour. Stir and skim as needed.
 4.把湯小心放入攪拌器攪爛,隔去渣後放回湯鍋中。調味。
  Puree in a blender and pass through a strainer.
  Put the liquid back to the pan and season to taste.
 5.把九層塔切碎,放入鮮奶油中打成起身。
  Garnish with basil cream and serve.
 

2007年10月6日 星期六

牛腩濃湯生麵

 一碗家常麵,在這個風雨中的加拿大感恩節中更顯溫暖。

 看似普通的一碗麵條,但也大費周章,全因那些甜菜片和薯條。

 為了要看看焗甜菜片好還是炸的好,我兩樣都做了。結果我覺得,炸過的甜菜片顏色可保存得較好,形狀也較美。而兩種煮的方法,也可以令到甜菜更甜,而甜菜那一種「泥土」的味道也沒有了。

 另外,我嘗試用紫馬鈴薯作薯條。紫馬鈴薯的顏色很美,但要記住,馬鈴薯切後要放在水裡,才可以避免氧化。另外,炸的時候要小心,過火了紫馬鈴薯便變得很難看。

 至於濃湯,我選了牛骨湯。若可以的話,加一些新鮮的蔬菜進湯中,再煲一煲,可以令湯有清新的感覺。
 

2007年10月5日 星期五

起士烤麵包


Bénédictin Cheese Croûtons

【材料】
 法式麵包 baguette …………………… 1/4 條
 Bénédictin起士(或其他硬起士 ..........60 克
 無鹽奶油 unsalted butter ………........ 80 克

【作法】
 1. 把麵包切成六小片。
  Cut the bread into 6 croûtons.
 2. 將奶油放入鍋中,用中火融化。
  下麵包煎至兩面金黃色。
  Pan-fry in butter until golden brown and crisp.
 3. 把起士平均分佈在麵包上。用焗爐焗至起士稍微變軟。
  Divide and spread the cheese over the croûtons
  and put heat it until the cheese starts melting.
 4. 用以佐西芹濃湯。
  Serve with Cream of Celery Soup.
 

牛骨湯底

 一道菜有好的湯頭已成功了一半。無怪乎EscoffierEstouffade放在Le Cuide Culinaire的首位。

 這個湯底用了小牛牛骨 veal bone 和牛骨 beef bone。

 用小牛牛骨是為了色澤,因它能令湯有一份金黃色。用烤過的蕃茄漿也是同一個原因。若想增加顏色,可把一個洋蔥連皮放進湯內。

 用牛骨則取其味,要選帶有肉的。有骨髓的更好,可以增加湯的質感。湯不用下鹽,作菜時才需調味,以免鹽份過高。煲過後的骨可以再重煲。第二次煲這個湯的時候,可用重煲的湯水代替冰開水,效果更好。

Brown Beef Stock

【材料】
 牛骨 beef bones,切成5-7公分 ......................... 1.5 公斤
 小牛牛骨 veal bones,切成5-7公分 .................... 1.5 公斤
 洋蔥切粒 onion dice ………………………………… 150 公克
 紅蘿蔔切粒 carrot dice ……………………………… 80 公克
 西洋芹切粒 celery stalk dice ……………………… 80 公克
 蕃茄漿 tomato paste ………………………………… 60 公克
 冰開水 cold water …………………………………… 6 公升

 【香料包】
  百里香 thyme
  迷迭香 rosemary
  月桂葉碎 bay leaves
  洋芫荽莖 fresh parsley stalks
  碎黑胡椒 cracked black peppercorn …………… 各適量

【作法】
 1. 先將烤箱預熱到200度C (400度F)。
  Preheat oven to 200'C (400'F).
 2. 把骨放在大焗盤內,焗熱至金黃色。
  Add bones to roasting pan and brown evenly.
 3. 把蕃茄漿混入,再焗熱。
  Add tomato paste to pan towards the end of roasting time.
 4. 將材料放進湯鍋內。
  Transfer browned bones to stockpot.
 5. 將焗盤內剩餘的油份留起備用。
  加水入盤內,加熱並用木匙把黏在焗盤內剩餘的東西除去 (deglaze)。
  Remove excess fat from roasting pan, and deglaze pan with cold water.
 6. 將 deglaze 後的汁液放在湯鍋內。
  Add deglazing lliquid to stockpot.
 7. 加冰開水到蓋過骨面,加熱至大滾後改中火。
  Bring to boil. Then reduce heat to simmer.
 8. 煮6小時,其間用杓子撈去浮油。加適量水以保持水的份量。
  Skim stock frequently. Allow stock to simmer 6 hours.
  Add water to cover the bones as needed.
 9. 用留下的油把蔬菜略炒,與香料包一同放進湯鍋中。
  Sweat the vegtables using the remaining oil from the pan.
  Add them to the stock pot together with the spice bag.
 10. 再煮約2小時,隔去湯渣即成。
  Simmer for another 2 hours, and then strain stock through china cap.
 

人情酥餅乾

 做餅乾不難,可是要做得好,一點也不容易。

 雖然按步就班的去做,但卻好像欠了些什麼的。

 我想,是經驗吧? 要做得好,一定要不停的嘗試。不怕失敗的嘗試。

 特別是唧花,一點也不可以急,否則形狀便不「合格」了。

 其次,是打發的時間。過度攪拌,會令餅乾變得硬身。所以下麵粉後要小心一點,餅糊記住要保持鬆。

【材料】
(大約可得800克的餅乾)
 糖霜 icing sugar .............................................. 200 克
 無鹽牛油 soft unsalted butter ............................ 220 克
 酥油 shortening ............................................... 100 克
 鹽 salt .............................................................. 5 克
 雲尼拉油(香草精)vanilla extract/oil .................. 5 毫升
 雞蛋 eggs .......................................... 100 毫升/2大隻
 牛奶 milk ........................................................ 100 毫升
 高根粉 bread flour ............................................ 250 克
 低筋麵粉 pastry flour ........................................ 250 克

【作法】
 1. 把牛油、酥油、糖霜、鹽、和雲尼拉油混合,用攪拌機打成忌廉狀。
  把黏在碗邊的刮下。
  Cream fats, sugar, salt, and vanilla oil. Scrape down bowl.
 2. 逐一加入雞蛋,繼續攪拌。把黏在碗邊的刮下。
  Add eggs gradually alalowing them time to be incorporated.
  Scrape down bowl.
 3. 加入牛奶慢慢加入,繼續攪拌。
  Add milk, allow it to be partially absorbed.
 4. 加入篩過的高根粉和低筋麵粉。稍為混和後便停止攪動。
  Add sifted flours, and mix just enough to fully incorporate.
 5. 用手確保麵團混和。
  Remove from machine and turn over batter by hand
  to ensure the batter is completely mixed.
 6. 把麵團唧在羊皮紙上,做出不同形狀。
  Pipe into parchment lined trays with a #5 tip.
 7. 入爐(華氏 380 度)焗至金黃色。
  Bake at 380'F, til lthey become golden around the base.
 8. 冷卻後便可以放進巧克力漿內了!
  Once cooled, they can be dipped into chocolate (optional).
 

Consommé 中的盼望

 今天學煮清湯。

 對中國人來說,沒有什麼特別。反正廣東人的老火湯一向也清,也好喝。

 雖然說Consommé是「清」,但材料多,花的時間也長。

 要湯清,全靠雞蛋白 Clarifying agent。原理是,蛋白受熱凝固上升,連帶其他的東西也帶走。最後成為一層厚厚的東西,像木筏一樣,浮在表面上。

Poultry Consommé "Brunoise"

【材料】
 雞蛋白 egg white ............................................ 6 隻
 火雞碎肉 ground turkey ............................... 300 公克
 洋蔥 onion ................................................... 80 公克
 紅蘿蔔 carrot ................................................ 80 公克
 西洋芹 celery stalk ....................................... 80 公克
 韭蔥 leeks ................................................... 60 公克
 番茄 tomato ................................................... 2 個
 冷凍上等雞湯 chicken stock ........................... 3 公升
 燒焦洋蔥 Onion Brûlée .................................... 1/2 個
 鹽 salt ............................................................ 適量

 香料袋:
  月桂葉(揑碎)bay leave .............................. 適量
  百里香 thyme ............................................... 適量
  黑胡椒碎 cracked black peppercorn ............... 適量
  莞茜莖 parsley stem ..................................... 適量

【作法】
 1. 番茄去皮,去籽,切成細粒。
  Remove skin and seeds from the tomatoes. Brunoise it.
 2. 洋蔥、紅蘿蔔、西芹、韭蔥切成細粒(Brunoise),放進不銹鋼鍋中。
  Brunoise onion, carrot, celery stalk, and leek. Place them into a stainless steel bowl.
 3. 加入雞蛋白、火雞碎肉、番茄、鹽。拌勻後放在鍋內。
  Mix in egg white, ground turkey, tomato, and salt.
  Whisk well and put the mixture into a stock pot.
 4. 倒入一半雞湯,拌勻後再放入餘下的雞湯。
  Add half of the chicken stock. Mix well, and add the rest of the stock.
 5. 加入燒焦洋蔥及香料袋。
  Add onion brûlée and spice bag.
 6. 燒滾湯後,改中火。間中攪拌,直至蛋白開始凝固上升後便立刻改最慢火。
  Turn on high heat and bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring occasionally.
  Stop stirring when the raft starts forming and the meat loses its raw appearance.
 7. 煲湯一個小時。其間切勿攪動。
  Reduce heat and simmer for approximately one hour.
  Turn off heat and allow raft to settle for five minutes.
 8. 用杓子小心把湯勺出,再用紗布(cheesecloth)過濾。
  With a ladle, remove the centre of the raft. Fill the ladle with consommé
  and carefully pour through a fine strainer lined with rinsed cheesecloth (4-layers).
 9. 去油後調味,便成美味的清雞湯!
  Remove all fat and adjust salt to taste.

【心得】
 1. Brunoise 要切得細才容易跟蛋白上升。
 2. 番茄帶酸,令蛋白更容易凝固。